Kerala biryani: what makes Malabar-style dum biryani different
Biryani exists across India and beyond, and every region has its own idea of it. The version from Kerala's Malabar coast is one of the most distinctive: fragrant, mild and rich without being fiery.
What is Malabar biryani?
Malabar biryani (often linked with the town of Thalassery) is a dum biryani: rice and spiced meat are cooked together, sealed in a pot and finished in their own steam. Dum means this slow, sealed cooking, which keeps the aroma in.
What sets it apart:
- Short-grain, fragrant rice (rather than long-grain basmati), which gives a softer, more tender texture.
- Mild heat. The flavour comes from whole spices such as cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, plus ginger, garlic and caramelised onions, not from chilli.
- Fried onions, cashews and raisins on top for sweetness and crunch.
- Ghee for richness.
How it differs from other biryanis
A Hyderabad-style biryani typically uses long-grain basmati and more heat. Malabar biryani is gentler and more fragrant. Neither is better; they are different dishes with the same name.
What to order at kokoland
See today's menu. Biryanis appear regularly with chicken, with beef or in other variations, including a Kerala chicken biryani and a Chicken 65 biryani. For vegetarians, a paneer biryani is often available. Pair a biryani with a cooling side and a chai.
Frequently asked questions
Is biryani spicy? Malabar biryani is aromatic and mild. Tell us if you want a hotter side.
Does it contain nuts? Cashews are common as a topping. If you have a nut allergy, please tell us.
Can I get it vegan? Biryanis often use ghee and yoghurt. Ask us what is possible.
How long does it take? Everything is cooked fresh to order, around 25 to 30 minutes.
New to the cuisine? Start with what is Kerala food?.
Visit
Petersburger Str. 39, 10249 Berlin-Friedrichshain, Tuesday to Sunday 12:00 to 22:00. Reserve a table.
